Ingredient evidence index: what has actually been studied for saw palmetto, pumpkin seed, rosemary, black seed and amla

How to read this page

Classification uses three labels: 'clinical (human)' for trials and case reports in people; 'preclinical / in-vitro / animal' for cell, enzyme, formulation and animal work; 'review / meta-analysis' for papers that summarise other studies. Intervention form states the route the study actually used; an oral capsule or syrup result says nothing about what an oil applied to the scalp does, and an in-vitro result says nothing about people. Outcomes are given in neutral language with the study's own numbers where the abstract reports them; a percentage change 'from baseline' in a trial without a placebo arm shows change over time, not superiority over doing nothing. Limitations list sample size, duration, comparator, species and funding or author affiliations as stated in the source. Entries are ordered within each section from human trials to reviews to laboratory work. Reviews that assess several of the five botanicals together sit in a separate section at the end so that they are not counted several times. Citations link to PubMed; where a full text was consulted the PubMed Central identifier is also given.

Saw palmetto (Serenoa repens)

Role on the product page: First of the five botanicals listed on the Original Afghani Hair Oil (50 ml) product page: ripe-berry extract carried in the oil blend. The site's guide says it is included because it is one of the most-studied botanicals in the formula. No concentration is published for the product.

Most of the saw palmetto evidence comes from oral supplements, often products that combine it with other ingredients; one 16-week trial, four of whose six authors work for the extract's maker, added a 20% topical arm. The 2020 systematic review describes the signal as positive but says robust high-quality data are lacking, and the 2026 network meta-analysis (see cross-ingredient section) lists topical saw palmetto among therapies with potential benefit behind topical minoxidil 5%. None of these studies used a cosmetic oil blend, and none tested Afghani Oil.

Sudeep HV, Rashmi S, Jestin TV, Richards A, Gouthamchandra K, Shyamprasad K. [1]

• Design: Clinical (human) — Double-blind, placebo-controlled, four-arm randomized trial (1:1:1:1 allocation)
• Form tested: oral + topical (400 mg capsules each containing 100 mg of a standardised saw palmetto extract with 2-3% beta-sitosterol (VISPO), or 5 mL of a lotion containing 20% of that extract, once daily, each against its own placebo)
• Population or model: 80 healthy men and women aged 18-50 with mild-to-moderate androgenetic alopecia; about 20 people per arm
• Duration: 16 weeks
• Outcome: Hair fall fell from baseline by up to 29% with the oral form (p<0.001) and by 22.19% with the topical form (p<0.01); hair density rose by 5.17% (oral) and 7.61% (topical) (p<0.001), and oral intake lowered serum DHT compared with placebo (p<0.001). The effect on the anagen/telogen ratio was not significant, and no serious adverse effects were observed.
• Limitations: Small arms (about 20 people) over 16 weeks; a proprietary standardised extract (VISPO) rather than a cosmetic oil; the main hair-fall figures are change from baseline. The extract is made by Vidya Herbs, which employs four of the six authors; the paper gives no separate funding statement.
• Source: PMID 38021422; PMC10648974

Piquero-Casals J, Saceda-Corralo D, Aladren S, Bustos J, Fernandez-Botello A, Navasa A, Logusso G, Jourdan E, Mir-Bonafe JF, Morgado-Carrasco D. [2]

• Design: Clinical (human) — Double-blind, placebo-controlled randomized trial of a multi-ingredient supplement (also listed under pumpkin seed)
• Form tested: oral (one capsule daily of a supplement combining l-cystine, Serenoa repens, Cucurbita pepo, Pygeum africanum, vitamins and micronutrients, versus placebo)
• Population or model: 80 patients of both sexes aged 18-60 with chronic telogen effluvium or androgenetic alopecia
• Duration: 6 months, with assessments at baseline, 3 and 6 months
• Outcome: Hair density increased by 9.9 hairs/cm2 at 3 months and 12.3 hairs/cm2 at 6 months in the supplement group, a statistically significant difference from placebo; overall hair volume at 1, 3 and 6 months was better than placebo. The supplement was well tolerated, with no moderate or severe adverse events.
• Limitations: Multi-ingredient capsule, so the contribution of saw palmetto (or of pumpkin seed) cannot be isolated; oral, not topical; 80 participants across two diagnoses. Six authors are ISDIN employees, the first author is an ISDIN consultant and two others report ISDIN honoraria, so the study is industry-linked.
• Source: PMID 39911983; PMC11793890

Evron E, Juhasz M, Babadjouni A, Mesinkovska NA. [3]

• Design: Review / meta-analysis — Systematic review (PubMed, Google Scholar and Cochrane searches) of 5 randomized clinical trials and 2 prospective cohort studies
• Form tested: review (the included studies used oral and topical supplements containing 100-320 mg saw palmetto)
• Population or model: Patients with androgenetic alopecia and telogen effluvium using supplements containing saw palmetto
• Duration: Not pooled; varies by included study
• Outcome: The authors report that the included studies showed positive effects, citing a 60% improvement in overall hair quality, a 27% improvement in total hair count, increased hair density in 83.3% of patients and stabilised disease progression in 52%, with saw palmetto well tolerated and no serious adverse events.
• Limitations: The authors state that robust high-quality data are lacking and that large trials isolating saw palmetto's own contribution are needed; the included products were supplements 'containing' saw palmetto, often with other ingredients; the figures quoted come from different studies and are not pooled statistically. The authors declare no conflicts of interest.
• Source: PMID 33313047; PMC7706486

Pumpkin seed oil (Cucurbita pepo)

Role on the product page: Second of the five botanicals listed on the Original Afghani Hair Oil (50 ml) product page: cold-pressed seed oil that acts as the light carrier of the blend. The site's guide gives it a cosmetic role, texture and spread, and does not attach a treatment claim to it.

Two randomized trials exist: an oral capsule trial in men (2014) and a small topical trial in women compared with minoxidil 5% foam and without a placebo arm (2021). A 2025 placebo-controlled trial tested pumpkin seed only inside a multi-ingredient oral supplement. Laboratory and mouse work (2022) explores 5-alpha-reductase inhibition and follicle counts. None of these studies used an oil blend, and none tested Afghani Oil.

Cho YH, Lee SY, Jeong DW, Choi EJ, Kim YJ, Lee JG, Yi YH, Cha HS. [4]

• Design: Clinical (human) — Randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial
• Form tested: oral (400 mg of pumpkin seed oil per day in capsules, versus placebo)
• Population or model: 76 men with mild to moderate androgenetic alopecia
• Duration: 24 weeks
• Outcome: Mean hair count rose by 40% in the pumpkin seed oil group versus 10% with placebo (p<0.001), and self-rated improvement and satisfaction scores were higher in the oil group (p=0.013 and 0.003). Adverse effects did not differ between groups.
• Limitations: One trial, men only, oral capsules rather than a scalp application; funding is not stated in the abstract. A published comment on this trial followed (Verma H. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2015;2015:271474, PMID 25918542); our source file for the comment holds bibliographic data only, so its content is not summarised here.
• Source: PMID 24864154; PMC4017725

Ibrahim IM, Hasan MS, Elsabaa KI, Elsaie ML. [5]

• Design: Clinical (human) — Randomized comparative trial against minoxidil 5% foam, without a placebo arm; clinical and dermoscopic evaluation
• Form tested: topical (pumpkin seed oil applied to the scalp; the Bin Rubaian 2024 review reports the dose as 1 mL versus 1 mL of minoxidil 5% foam)
• Population or model: 60 women with female pattern hair loss (30 per group), Cairo
• Duration: 3 months, with evaluation at baseline, 1.5 months and 3 months
• Outcome: In the pumpkin seed oil group hair-shaft diversity fell from 30.5 +/- 6.2% to 24.0 +/- 4.02 (p<.001), vellus hairs fell from 22.5 +/- 4.9 to 15.8 +/- 2.2 (p<.001) and upright regrowing hairs rose from 0.13 +/- 0.5 to 0.9 +/- 1.0 (p<.001); the minoxidil group also improved on hair-shaft diversity (31.5 +/- 6.3% to 21.3 +/- 2.2, p<.001) and vellus hairs (24.7 +/- 6.4 to 19.5 +/- 5.4, p=.02). The authors describe a 'promising potential role'.
• Limitations: Thirty women per arm over three months with no placebo arm, so the results are change from baseline rather than superiority over no treatment; the abstract does not report a direct statistical comparison between the two groups or funding. The 2025 Gupta network meta-analysis excluded this trial because total hair density was not measured at 24 weeks.
• Source: PMID 33544448

Piquero-Casals J, Saceda-Corralo D, Aladren S, Bustos J, Fernandez-Botello A, Navasa A, Logusso G, Jourdan E, Mir-Bonafe JF, Morgado-Carrasco D. [2]

• Design: Clinical (human) — Double-blind, placebo-controlled randomized trial of a multi-ingredient supplement (also listed under saw palmetto)
• Form tested: oral (one capsule daily of a supplement combining l-cystine, Serenoa repens, Cucurbita pepo, Pygeum africanum, vitamins and micronutrients, versus placebo)
• Population or model: 80 patients of both sexes aged 18-60 with chronic telogen effluvium or androgenetic alopecia
• Duration: 6 months, with assessments at baseline, 3 and 6 months
• Outcome: Hair density increased by 9.9 hairs/cm2 at 3 months and 12.3 hairs/cm2 at 6 months in the supplement group, a statistically significant difference from placebo; overall hair volume at 1, 3 and 6 months was better than placebo. The supplement was well tolerated, with no moderate or severe adverse events.
• Limitations: Multi-ingredient capsule, so the contribution of pumpkin seed (or of saw palmetto) cannot be isolated; oral, not topical; 80 participants across two diagnoses. Six authors are ISDIN employees, the first author is an ISDIN consultant and two others report ISDIN honoraria, so the study is industry-linked.
• Source: PMID 39911983; PMC11793890

Teeranachaideekul V, Parichatikanond W, Junyaprasert VB, Morakul B. [6]

• Design: Preclinical / in-vitro / animal — Formulation and cell-culture study of pumpkin seed oil loaded into niosomes, with a reconstructed-skin irritation test and an 8-week in-vivo application of a scalp serum compared with baseline
• Form tested: in-vitro + topical (niosome-encapsulated pumpkin seed oil; a hair scalp serum containing the niosomes for the in-vivo part)
• Population or model: DU-145 cells (5-alpha-reductase), RAW 264.7 cells (IL-6), reconstructed human skin, and an in-vivo hair-count test whose participant number and control are not given in the abstract
• Duration: 8 weeks for the in-vivo serum test
• Outcome: The niosomes showed better skin permeation and hair-follicle accumulation than plain pumpkin seed oil solution, inhibited 5-alpha-reductase activity in DU-145 cells and hindered IL-6 activity in RAW 264.7 cells, and did not irritate reconstructed human skin. After 8 weeks the serum produced a 44.42% decrease in fallen hairs in a 60-second hair count and a 1.4-fold increase in the anagen/telogen ratio on TrichoScan, compared with the initial conditions.
• Limitations: The hair-count result is a before-and-after comparison with no control group and no stated sample size; the preparation is an engineered nanocarrier, not a plain oil; the cell assays are not hair outcomes. The authors declare no conflict of interest.
• Source: PMID 36015077; PMC9412580

da Cruz GK, Martins MIM, Antunes FTT, de Souza AH, Wiilland EF, Picada JN, Brum LFDS. [7]

• Design: Preclinical / in-vitro / animal — Controlled animal study with six groups (oral saline, finasteride or pumpkin seed oil; topical saline, minoxidil or pumpkin seed oil), histology of shaved dorsal skin, liver oxidative-stress markers, comet and micronucleus assays
• Form tested: animal (oral pumpkin seed oil for 14 days, or topical pumpkin seed oil for 7 days)
• Population or model: BALB/c male mice; group sizes not given in the abstract
• Duration: 14 days oral or 7 days topical; euthanasia on day 22
• Outcome: The topical pumpkin seed oil group showed a significant increase in the number of hair follicles (8.8 +/- 0.8), but the follicles were disorganised with loose dermal collagen; the authors conclude that oral pumpkin seed oil for 14 days acted on follicle proliferation without liver toxicity signals. Finasteride raised liver TBARS, SOD and CAT and minoxidil increased DNA damage in blood and liver, whereas pumpkin seed oil induced no significant changes and no genotoxic or mutagenic effects.
• Limitations: Mice, not people; very short exposure; follicle counts are a histological measure, not visible hair; group sizes and funding are not stated in the abstract.
• Source: PMID 35447441

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis / Salvia rosmarinus)

Role on the product page: Third of the five botanicals listed on the Original Afghani Hair Oil (50 ml) product page: steam-distilled rosemary leaf oil, carried diluted inside the blend of carrier oils and never applied undiluted. The site's guide describes it as carrying the aromatic note of the blend.

Rosemary has one six-month randomized trial in people, which compared a rosemary oil lotion with minoxidil 2% and found no significant difference in hair count between the two groups at six months, with no placebo arm. Two narrative reviews summarise that trial together with laboratory and animal work on 5-alpha-reductase inhibition and anti-inflammatory activity. A 2025 review of online misinformation (cross-ingredient section) lists rosemary oil among remedies promoted beyond their evidence. The trial used a lotion of stated strength, not a cosmetic oil blend, and did not test Afghani Oil.

Panahi Y, Taghizadeh M, Marzony ET, Sahebkar A. [8]

• Design: Clinical (human) — Randomized comparative trial against minoxidil 2%, with standardised microphotographic hair counts at baseline, 3 and 6 months; no placebo arm. The Gupta 2025 review (PMC12136554) describes it as investigator-blinded; the Bin Rubaian 2024 review (PMC11549889) as single-blind.
• Form tested: topical (rosemary oil; the Gupta 2025 review reports a lotion standardised to 3.7 mg 1,8-cineole per mL, 1 mL applied twice daily to the frontoparietal and vertex scalp)
• Population or model: Patients with androgenetic alopecia, 50 per group; the two reviews in the sources describe them as 100 men aged 18-49
• Duration: 6 months
• Outcome: No significant change in mean hair count at 3 months in either group; at 6 months both groups showed a significant increase in hair count versus baseline and 3 months (p<.05), with no significant difference between rosemary and minoxidil at either time point. Frequencies of dry hair, greasy hair and dandruff did not change from baseline; scalp itching rose in both groups and was more frequent with minoxidil (p<.05).
• Limitations: One trial of 50 people per arm with no placebo group, so 'comparable to minoxidil 2%' is the only comparison available; the Gupta 2025 review notes that the size and location of the hair-count area were not reported and gives the raw counts as 122.8 +/- 48.9 to 129.6 +/- 51.2 hairs (rosemary) and 138.4 +/- 38.0 to 140.7 +/- 38.5 hairs (minoxidil). Funding is not stated in the abstract. The result has not been replicated at scale.
• Source: PMID 25842469

Bin Rubaian NF, Alzamami HFA, Amir BA. [9]

• Design: Review / meta-analysis — Narrative review of rosemary oil (history, chemistry, laboratory properties, the 2015 trial) with shorter sections on peppermint oil, tea tree oil, green tea, pumpkin seed oil, saw palmetto and lavender oil
• Form tested: review (topical oils and extracts; some oral and animal data)
• Population or model: Published human, animal and laboratory studies in androgenetic alopecia
• Duration: Not applicable
• Outcome: The review states that rosemary oil showed efficacy similar to minoxidil 2% in the 2015 trial, and summarises a mouse-model study in which a rosemary leaf extract inhibited 5-alpha-reductase by 82.4% and 94.6% at 200 and 500 mg/mL against 81.9% for finasteride, with 12-methoxycarnosic acid as the most active constituent. Its conclusion is that further research is required to understand the efficacy and safety of these herbal alternatives.
• Limitations: Narrative review without a systematic search or quality grading; the rosemary efficacy claim rests on the single 2015 trial plus animal and in-vitro data; percentages quoted for laboratory activity are not hair outcomes. The authors report no conflicts of interest.
• Source: PMID 39524109; PMC11549889

Almutairi AG, Altheyab FY, Alhawsawi W, Shadid A, Alkhalifah A. [10]

• Design: Review / meta-analysis — Narrative review of natural remedies with a focus on rosemary leaf extract, drawing on in-vitro, in-vivo and clinical studies
• Form tested: review (rosemary leaf extract in laboratory, animal and clinical settings)
• Population or model: Published studies in androgenetic alopecia (laboratory models, animals and trial participants)
• Duration: Not applicable
• Outcome: The review reports that laboratory and animal models assessed the extract's effect on follicle proliferation and the anagen phase, and states that clinical trials showed significant improvements in hair density and thickness among participants using rosemary extract compared with control groups. It calls for further research into rosemary's mechanisms, long-term efficacy and safety.
• Limitations: Online ahead of print; the abstract gives no search method, study count or quality assessment, and presents rosemary as a 'safer' alternative in the authors' own framing. Conflict-of-interest and funding statements are not included in the source abstract.
• Source: PMID 41630600

Black seed (Nigella sativa)

Role on the product page: Fourth of the five botanicals listed on the Original Afghani Hair Oil (50 ml) product page: cold-pressed nigella oil in measured proportion, balanced by lighter oils. The site's guide includes it for softness and for its long tradition as a scalp oil, explicitly not as a treatment.

One small clinical trial exists, outside PubMed: a 2013 randomized, placebo-controlled pilot in 20 women with acute telogen effluvium tested a scalp lotion containing 0.5% black seed essential oil, not the pressed oil used in hair oils, and reported more women with increased hair density in the treated group (9 of 10) than on placebo (3 of 10), without a between-group statistical test. The PubMed searches cited by our black seed guide (6 and 16 October 2026) found no randomized trial of black seed oil for hair growth, dandruff, grey hair or telogen effluvium. The other verifiable study in our sources is a safety report identifying thymoquinone as the allergen in a case of contact dermatitis to the oil. The pharmacology review of thymoquinone cited by the guide (PMID 42813630) has no abstract in our sources and is listed as unverified rather than indexed.

Rossi A, Priolo L, Iorio A, Vescarelli E, Gerardi M, Campo D, Di Nunno D, Ceccarelli S, Calvieri S, Angeloni A, Marchese C. [11]

• Design: Clinical (human) — Double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized pilot trial (computer-generated allocation); outcomes read by videodermatoscopy and by three independent dermatologists; published in a journal not indexed in PubMed
• Form tested: topical (2 ml a day of a lotion with 0.5% black seed essential oil, 3% glycerin, 0.4% lavender essential oil and 60% alcohol; placebo = the same lotion without black seed)
• Population or model: 20 women aged 22-50 with acute telogen effluvium (10 per group), Rome
• Duration: 3 months of treatment, follow-up at 6 months
• Outcome: After 3 months, hair density rose in 9 of the 10 women using the black seed lotion and in 3 of the 10 on placebo; cumulative hair thickness rose in all 10 treated women, while it fell in 6 of 10 on placebo. The authors report improvement in 70% of treated patients and less scalp inflammation.
• Limitations: Ten women per group; results are reported patient by patient, with no between-group statistical test in the paper; acute telogen effluvium often resolves on its own within 3-6 months; the lotion used black seed essential oil (0.5%) with lavender oil and alcohol, not the pressed seed oil used in hair oils; journal outside PubMed; no funding statement found. A lead, not proof.
• Source: DOI 10.4236/jcdsa.2013.33A1002

Kurihara F, Soria A, Lepoittevin JP, Chasset F, Barbaud A, Pecquet C. [12]

• Design: Clinical (human) — Allergology case report (Tenon Hospital, Paris, with the Strasbourg dermatochemistry laboratory); our source file carries the bibliographic record only, without an abstract
• Form tested: topical (skin exposure to Nigella sativa oil; a safety report, not a treatment study)
• Population or model: Patient(s) with contact dermatitis attributed to Nigella sativa oil; number not available from the source record
• Duration: Not applicable
• Outcome: The report identifies thymoquinone, the signature compound of black seed oil, as the causative allergen in Nigella sativa oil contact dermatitis, with cross-reactivity to tert-butylhydroquinone (information taken from the title of the record).
• Limitations: A case report establishes that the allergy can occur, not how often; it carries no efficacy data of any kind. Only the title, authors, journal and affiliations are available in our source file. Practical reading for a cosmetic: a documented reason to patch test any product containing the oil.
• Source: PMID 32232855

Amla (Phyllanthus emblica, Indian gooseberry)

Role on the product page: Fifth of the five botanicals listed on the Original Afghani Hair Oil (50 ml) product page: sun-dried fruit steeped into the oil. The site's guide describes it as the shine and colour-depth ingredient of the blend.

Amla has one randomized trial in people, which used an oral syrup in women with pattern hair loss for twelve weeks; there is no clinical trial of amla oil applied to the scalp. The laboratory record is stronger: in-vitro 5-alpha-reductase inhibition in a screen of seventeen plants (2012) and growth-factor gene activation in human keratinocytes (2022). A 2022 comprehensive review covers the fruit's traditional uses, including premature greying, and its toxicology. The amla guide reports that its PubMed search on 16 October 2026 found no clinical trial of amla for grey hair or dandruff. None of these studies tested a cosmetic oil blend or Afghani Oil. The 1992 dermatophyte study cited by the guide (PMID 1302812) has no source file and is listed as unverified.

Akhbari M, Firooz A, Rahimi R, Shirzad M, Esmaealzadeh N, Shirbeigi L. [13]

• Design: Clinical (human) — Triple-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trial with TrichoScan analysis and CGI-I / PGI-I satisfaction questionnaires
• Form tested: oral (10 cc of amla syrup three times a day, versus a placebo at the same dose)
• Population or model: 60 women with female androgenetic alopecia randomized 30/30 (Tehran); 27 in the amla group and 25 in the placebo group completed the trial
• Duration: 12 weeks
• Outcome: The anagen-to-telogen ratio increased significantly in the amla group compared with placebo (F = 10.4, p = 0.002), and physician and patient satisfaction were higher in the amla group at week 12 (p<0.001 for each). The only side effect reported was one case of mild constipation.
• Limitations: Oral syrup, not a scalp application, so it says nothing about amla oil; 52 completers over 12 weeks; a single trial that the authors say needs further study. The authors declare no competing interests; the syrup's composition beyond amla is not described in the abstract.
• Source: PMID 37487962

Saini R, Sharma N, Oladeji OS, Sourirajan A, Dev K, Zengin G, El-Shazly M, Kumar V. [14]

• Design: Review / meta-analysis — Comprehensive narrative review of literature published before April 2021 on the phytochemistry, pharmacology and toxicity of the fruit
• Form tested: review (mostly oral and laboratory preparations of the fruit)
• Population or model: Published in-vitro, in-vivo and traditional-use literature on Phyllanthus emblica fruit; not hair-specific
• Duration: Not applicable
• Outcome: The review lists premature greying of hair among the fruit's traditional indications, identifies tannins, flavonoids, saponins, terpenoids, alkaloids and ascorbic acid as its bioactives, summarises antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in laboratory studies, and reports that toxicological studies found no adverse effect even at a high oral dose.
• Limitations: Not a hair study: no hair outcome is reviewed, and the greying reference is a traditional indication, not a trial result. The authors note that many of the reports they reviewed lack information on dose, standards, controls and mechanism.
• Source: PMID 34480995

Kumar N, Rungseevijitprapa W, Narkkhong NA, Suttajit M, Chaiyasut C. [15]

• Design: Preclinical / in-vitro / animal — Screen of ethanolic extracts of seventeen Thai plants for 5-alpha-reductase inhibition (rat liver enzyme) and hair-growth promotion in mice
• Form tested: in-vitro + animal (ethanolic plant extracts)
• Population or model: Rat liver 5-alpha-reductase in vitro; C57BL/6 mice in vivo
• Duration: Not stated in the abstract
• Outcome: Phyllanthus emblica was the second most potent 5-alpha-reductase inhibitor of the seventeen plants, with 18.99 +/- 0.40 mg finasteride-equivalent per gram of crude extract, behind Carthamus tinctorius (24.30 +/- 1.64), which was also the most potent hair-growth promoter in mice. Across the plants, enzyme inhibition correlated with hair-growth promotion (r = 0.719) and with follicle count (r = 0.766).
• Limitations: Enzyme assay and mice, not people; the strongest mouse result belongs to safflower, and amla's own mouse result is not singled out in the abstract; ethanolic extracts differ from an oil infusion of the fruit.
• Source: PMID 22178180

Wongrakpanich A, Leanpolchareanchai J, Morakul B, Parichatikanond W, Teeranachaideekul V. [16]

• Design: Preclinical / in-vitro / animal — Extraction, cell-culture gene-expression and nanocarrier formulation study, with a dye-tracer test of follicle penetration
• Form tested: in-vitro (aqueous amla fruit extract, mainly gallic acid, at 10 ug/mL; extract-loaded transfersomes)
• Population or model: Human keratinocytes in culture; transfersome vesicles; rhodamine B tracer for follicle targeting
• Duration: 3-month storage stability test for the vesicles
• Outcome: At a non-toxic concentration of 10 ug/mL the aqueous extract promoted the expression of hair-growth-related growth factors in human keratinocytes at a level the authors describe as comparable to 1% minoxidil; the 30% ethanolic extract had higher antioxidant activity and phenolic content but higher cytotoxicity. Extract-loaded transfersomes measured 228 nm (polydispersity 0.25), stayed stable at 4 and 30 degrees C over 3 months, and rhodamine B transfersomes penetrated and accumulated in hair follicles better than a plain solution.
• Limitations: Cells and a dye tracer, not hair growth in animals or people; the delivery system is an engineered transfersome, not an oil infusion; funding is not stated in the abstract.
• Source: PMID 35781257

Reviews and meta-analyses covering several of the five botanicals

Role on the product page: Not a product-page ingredient. These papers assess rosemary, saw palmetto, pumpkin seed and, in one case, amla side by side with other non-prescription options, so they are listed once here rather than repeated under each ingredient.

Four reviews from 2025-2026 reach the same verdict on the botanicals as a class: some single trials show measurable change, mostly in people with androgenetic alopecia, but the trials are few, small and short, none of the botanicals has been shown to outperform topical minoxidil or oral finasteride, and larger randomized trials are needed. A fifth paper reviews online misinformation and lists rosemary oil and saw palmetto among remedies promoted without adequate evidence. None of these reviews assessed a cosmetic oil blend or Afghani Oil.

Gupta AK, Compton SAH, Liddy A, Talukder M, Wang T, Bamimore MA. [17]

• Design: Review / meta-analysis — Systematic review (PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science, ClinicalTrials.gov, searched 23 January 2026) with network meta-analyses of off-label monotherapies against topical minoxidil; outcome mean 6-month change in total hair density
• Form tested: review (topical saw palmetto is the only one of the five botanicals named in the abstract)
• Population or model: Men with androgenetic alopecia; 23 studies (15 off-label therapies, 8 topical minoxidil)
• Duration: 6-month outcomes
• Outcome: Topical minoxidil 5% ranked most effective; other therapies described as effective included topical melatonin, diaminopyrimidine oxide 1%, procyanidin 1%, saw palmetto (topical), a subcutaneous exosome-based formulation, cetirizine 1% and topical finasteride. The authors conclude that these off-label options show potential clinical benefit and warrant further high-quality comparative trials.
• Limitations: Network meta-analysis across heterogeneous small trials; men only; the abstract does not report effect sizes for saw palmetto, and rosemary is not named. All six authors are employed by Mediprobe Research Inc. and declare that the work was conducted without commercial or financial relationships.
• Source: PMID 42512824; PMC13414076

Gupta AK, Bamimore MA, Talukder M. [18]

• Design: Review / meta-analysis — Systematic review (PubMed and Scopus, searched 30 April 2025) followed by a Bayesian fixed-effect network meta-analysis; main outcome change in total hair density at 24 weeks (hairs/cm2); study-level evidence quality assessed
• Form tested: review (topical rosemary and topical saw palmetto among the comparators; pumpkin seed oil excluded)
• Population or model: Men with androgenetic alopecia; 24 eligible trials covering 8 conventional monotherapies and 7 alternative products, including rosemary (topical) and saw palmetto (topical)
• Duration: 24-week outcomes
• Outcome: The analysis confirms the efficacy of conventional monotherapies (oral dutasteride, topical or oral minoxidil, oral or topical finasteride) and, in the authors' words, provides guidance on the relative efficacy of some alternative agents, naming topical melatonin and topical rosemary oil, compared with conventional treatments. The full text notes that the mode of action of many alternatives is less well studied, with saw palmetto thought to inhibit 5-alpha-reductase and rosemary oil to act through antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antifungal mechanisms.
• Limitations: Fixed-effect network built on single trials for most alternatives; men only; numerical rankings for rosemary and saw palmetto are not given in the abstract. The full text states that pumpkin seed oil (Ibrahim et al. 2021) was not included because total hair density was not measured at 24 weeks. The authors declare no conflicts of interest.
• Source: PMID 41051009; PMC12498493

Gupta AK, Wang H, Wang T, Talukder M. [19]

• Design: Review / meta-analysis — Review of investigator-blinded, controlled clinical trials of non-prescription monotherapies; 13 studies
• Form tested: review (one trial each for pumpkin seed oil, rosemary oil and saw palmetto)
• Population or model: Trial participants with androgenetic alopecia; agents covered: procyanidin (4 RCTs), cetirizine (3), caffeine (1), Oryza sativa bran (1), pumpkin seed oil (1), rosemary oil (1), saw palmetto (1), watercress (1)
• Duration: Up to 6 months in the included trials
• Outcome: The authors report that the available data show considerable improvements in one or more of total hair density, terminal hair density and hair diameter, with minimal adverse events, and that cetirizine and rosemary oil showed efficacy comparable to minoxidil in their trials. They conclude that none of the products was shown to be more effective than topical minoxidil or oral finasteride, that the volume of studies is lacking, and that clinicians should exercise caution when recommending them.
• Limitations: A single trial underpins each of pumpkin seed oil, rosemary oil and saw palmetto; no pooling; the authors call for larger high-quality randomized trials and long-term safety data. No sponsor or funder; the authors declare no conflicts of interest.
• Source: PMID 40475103; PMC12136554

Ahmed A, Alali AM, Abdullah E, Alharbi MN, Alayoubi HM. [20]

• Design: Review / meta-analysis — Narrative literature review of studies published up to March 2024 on herbal remedies for hair loss
• Form tested: review (oral and topical herbal preparations)
• Population or model: Published studies in androgenetic alopecia, telogen effluvium and alopecia areata; herbs searched include rosemary, saw palmetto, pumpkin seed oil and amla among others
• Duration: Not applicable
• Outcome: The review reports that studies have suggested potential benefits for hair growth through mechanisms including 5-alpha-reductase inhibition, increased microcapillary blood flow, antioxidant effects and modulation of hair-growth signalling, and that the remedies were reported effective in different conditions.
• Limitations: The authors' key message is that many of the studies lack long-term follow-up, have small sample sizes and short treatment durations, and that well-designed randomized trials with larger samples are required; the abstract does not give per-herb results. The authors declare no conflicts of interest.
• Source: PMID 40771449; PMC12324729

Finnegan P, Goh Y, Murphy M, O'Connor C. [21]

• Design: Review / meta-analysis — Qualitative review of alopecia-related misinformation available online
• Form tested: review (online claims about remedies, not a study of any preparation)
• Population or model: Online sources of alopecia information, not trial data
• Duration: Not applicable
• Outcome: The authors identify myths about false causes, criticism of conventional treatments, and 'bogus natural cures'; among the alternative therapies they describe as unfounded and touted online are rosemary oil and saw palmetto, alongside biotin, onion juice and others. Their key message is that misinformation is prevalent and may lead to suboptimal outcomes.
• Limitations: A review of online content and its framing, not an assessment of the trials indexed above; it does not weigh the 2015 rosemary trial or the saw palmetto studies individually. The authors declare no conflicts of interest. It is included here because the site's rosemary guide cites it as a reason to read the trial rather than the trend.
• Source: PMID 40176994; PMC11961141

Cosmetic vs clinical

Afghani Oil is sold as a cosmetic: a hair and scalp oil for conditioning, softness and shine. It is not a medicine and is not sold as a treatment for hair loss, androgenetic alopecia, telogen effluvium, dandruff or greying. The studies indexed here were run on single ingredients, mostly in people diagnosed with a hair-loss condition, using preparations that differ from a cosmetic oil in form (capsules, syrups, standardised extracts, niosomes, transfersomes, lotions of stated strength), concentration and route. A clinical finding for one of those preparations does not transfer to a blend that contains the botanical at an undisclosed cosmetic proportion, and no trial of the blend exists. Where a guide on this site reports that it found no trial for a traditional claim (for example black seed oil for hair growth, or amla for grey hair), that statement reflects the guide's own PubMed searches on 6 and 16 October 2026 and is repeated here as such. One trial outside PubMed, the 2013 pilot of a black seed essential-oil lotion, is listed in the black seed section with its limits.

This index is an editorial reference, not medical advice. It summarises published abstracts and, for four reviews, full texts; it does not add studies beyond those sources, and it does not rate the quality of the underlying research beyond what the authors state. Afghani Oil has not been tested in any of the studies listed, and nothing on this page should be read as a claim that the product produces the outcomes described. Cosmetic results vary from person to person. Anyone losing hair should see a dermatologist for a diagnosis; anyone considering an oral supplement discussed here should ask a doctor, particularly if pregnant, breastfeeding or living with a hormone-sensitive condition. This index covers the five botanicals of Original Afghani Hair Oil (50 ml) only; Hair Density Protocol is a separate product with a different ingredient list and is not assessed here.

Sources

1. Sudeep HV, Rashmi S, Jestin TV, Richards A, Gouthamchandra K, Shyamprasad K. Oral and topical administration of a standardized saw palmetto oil reduces hair fall and improves the hair growth in androgenetic alopecia subjects: a 16-week randomized, placebo-controlled study. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2023;16:3251-3266. PMID 38021422; PMC10648974
2. Piquero-Casals J, Saceda-Corralo D, Aladren S, Bustos J, Fernandez-Botello A, Navasa A, Logusso G, Jourdan E, Mir-Bonafe JF, Morgado-Carrasco D. Oral supplementation with l-cystine, Serenoa repens, Cucurbita pepo, and Pygeum africanum in chronic telogen effluvium and androgenetic alopecia: a double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized clinical study. Skin Appendage Disord. 2025;11(1):27-35. PMID 39911983; PMC11793890
3. Evron E, Juhasz M, Babadjouni A, Mesinkovska NA. Natural hair supplement: friend or foe? Saw palmetto, a systematic review in alopecia. Skin Appendage Disord. 2020;6(6):329-337. PMID 33313047; PMC7706486
4. Cho YH, Lee SY, Jeong DW, Choi EJ, Kim YJ, Lee JG, Yi YH, Cha HS. Effect of pumpkin seed oil on hair growth in men with androgenetic alopecia: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2014;2014:549721. PMID 24864154; PMC4017725
5. Ibrahim IM, Hasan MS, Elsabaa KI, Elsaie ML. Pumpkin seed oil vs. minoxidil 5% topical foam for the treatment of female pattern hair loss: a randomized comparative trial. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021;20(9):2867-2873. PMID 33544448
6. Teeranachaideekul V, Parichatikanond W, Junyaprasert VB, Morakul B. Pumpkin seed oil-loaded niosomes for topical application: 5alpha-reductase inhibitory, anti-inflammatory, and in vivo anti-hair loss effects. Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2022;15(8):930. PMID 36015077; PMC9412580
7. da Cruz GK, Martins MIM, Antunes FTT, de Souza AH, Wiilland EF, Picada JN, Brum LFDS. Evaluation of the efficacy and toxicity of oral and topical pumpkin oil on the hair growth of mice. Acta Histochem. 2022;124(4):151894. PMID 35447441
8. Panahi Y, Taghizadeh M, Marzony ET, Sahebkar A. Rosemary oil vs minoxidil 2% for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia: a randomized comparative trial. Skinmed. 2015;13(1):15-21. PMID 25842469
9. Bin Rubaian NF, Alzamami HFA, Amir BA. An overview of commonly used natural alternatives for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia, with special emphasis on rosemary oil. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2024;17:2495-2503. PMID 39524109; PMC11549889
10. Almutairi AG, Altheyab FY, Alhawsawi W, Shadid A, Alkhalifah A. Review on natural remedies for hair growth promotion with a focus on rosemary. Dermatol Reports. 2026 Feb 2 (online ahead of print). PMID 41630600
11. Rossi A, Priolo L, Iorio A, Vescarelli E, Gerardi M, Campo D, Di Nunno D, Ceccarelli S, Calvieri S, Angeloni A, Marchese C. Evaluation of a therapeutic alternative for telogen effluvium: a pilot study. J Cosmet Dermatol Sci Appl. 2013;3(3A1). doi:10.4236/jcdsa.2013.33A1002 (not indexed in PubMed). DOI 10.4236/jcdsa.2013.33A1002
12. Kurihara F, Soria A, Lepoittevin JP, Chasset F, Barbaud A, Pecquet C. Thymoquinone as a causative allergen in Nigella sativa oil contact dermatitis with cross-reactivity to tert-butylhydroquinone. Contact Dermatitis. 2020;83(2):132-134. PMID 32232855
13. Akhbari M, Firooz A, Rahimi R, Shirzad M, Esmaealzadeh N, Shirbeigi L. The effect of an oral product containing Amla fruit (Phyllanthus emblica L.) on female androgenetic alopecia: a randomized controlled trial. J Ethnopharmacol. 2024;318(Pt A):116958. PMID 37487962
14. Saini R, Sharma N, Oladeji OS, Sourirajan A, Dev K, Zengin G, El-Shazly M, Kumar V. Traditional uses, bioactive composition, pharmacology, and toxicology of Phyllanthus emblica fruits: a comprehensive review. J Ethnopharmacol. 2022;282:114570. PMID 34480995
15. Kumar N, Rungseevijitprapa W, Narkkhong NA, Suttajit M, Chaiyasut C. 5alpha-reductase inhibition and hair growth promotion of some Thai plants traditionally used for hair treatment. J Ethnopharmacol. 2012;139(3):765-771. PMID 22178180
16. Wongrakpanich A, Leanpolchareanchai J, Morakul B, Parichatikanond W, Teeranachaideekul V. Phyllanthus emblica extract-loaded transfersomes for hair follicle targeting: phytoconstituents, characterization, and hair growth promotion. J Oleo Sci. 2022;71(7):1085-1096. PMID 35781257
17. Gupta AK, Compton SAH, Liddy A, Talukder M, Wang T, Bamimore MA. Beyond minoxidil: off-label therapies for male androgenetic alopecia, a systematic review with network meta-analyses. Medicina (Kaunas). 2026;62(7):1282. PMID 42512824; PMC13414076
18. Gupta AK, Bamimore MA, Talukder M. Relative efficacy of conventional monotherapies and select nonconventional, over-the-counter products for male androgenetic alopecia: a network meta-analysis study. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025;24(10):e70483. PMID 41051009; PMC12498493
19. Gupta AK, Wang H, Wang T, Talukder M. Do non-prescription products help in managing androgenic alopecia? Skin Appendage Disord. 2025;11(3):270-281. PMID 40475103; PMC12136554
20. Ahmed A, Alali AM, Abdullah E, Alharbi MN, Alayoubi HM. Herbal remedies for hair loss: a review of efficacy and safety. Skin Appendage Disord. 2025;11(4):360-371. PMID 40771449; PMC12324729
21. Finnegan P, Goh Y, Murphy M, O'Connor C. A qualitative review of misinformation on alopecia. Skin Appendage Disord. 2025;11(2):182-185. PMID 40176994; PMC11961141